100% Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo). Winemaker Gonzalo Iturriaga: ‘ I like the wine but the harvest in Toro is challenging because the grapes ripen too fast. Though 2018 was cooler than usual and therefore easier. It’s at 750 m elevation, between Rioja and Ribera with just 1,000 vines per hectare, all bush vines. The sandy soils mustn’t touch the fruit, otherwise it will burn it. The grapes get a little cold soak. Then there’s 10–30% malo in barrel. More US oak than in Rioja. There is much less gross-lees contact and stirring of them than in the past. They key point is the harvest date.’ They pick Toro first, then Rioja and then Ribera, which tends to start before the end of the Rioja harvest. According to Iturriaga, Toro used to be difficult to sell but now it’s their first new release to sell out. Very deep purplish crimson. Sweet and chocolatey start but with good savoury grunt underneath. Good energy and rather dry on the finish. Very Spanish! Some freshness rescues it from over-richness. (JR)