Mature aromas of coffee, forest floor and balsamic fruits, before a succulent entry with redcurrants and plums meshed with brisk acidity. Displays a wonderfully spicy, berried finish; a classic. Enjoy now. In the 1990s Vega Sicilia changed to predominantly Tinto Fino for Único and reined back on the Cabernet Sauvignon. Even a little Cabernet makes a difference, says technical director Gonzalo Iturriaga; 100% Tinto Fino can be just too balsamic. Here, Cabernet Sauvignon makes 25% of the blend, yet there’s no sense of it dominating. At 36 years this is a glorious wine, and Vega Sicilia’s notes on the weather of the year don't hold back: ‘fantastic climate’. Aged for 12 months in large wooden tanks for malolactic, 12 months in new and semi-new casks, then five years in used casks. Aged in bottle prior to release. 62,748 bottles, 2,000 magnums and 102 double magnums. Tasted from magnum.

1986 delivered a definitely old style and classical Vega Sicilia with the 1986 Único. Tasted from a magnum, it has abundant notes of paprika, very Bordeaux-like (apparently it contained an unusually high 25% Cabernet Sauvignon to complement the majority of Tinto Fino, or Tempranillo) and with the customary 13.5% alcohol from the era. The tannins are very fine, which make it very elegant. This is delicious to drink now. 2,000 magnums produced. Artwork by Esteban Vicente.

Deep red-ruby. Sappy, minerally, three-dimensional aromas of redcurrant, iron, and iris, plus an intriguing vegetal nuance. Thick flavors of smoke, minerals and iron filings. Initially showed slightly green acidity but the fruit exploded with aeration and the wine appeared to grow riper and riper. Really stuffed with chocolatey-ripe fruit of steel. Very long. This was even better after 24 hours in the open bottle. A great Unico, perhaps just behind 1970 and 1968 in sheer material, but at least as fine.

75% Tinto Fino, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Hot and dry summer with harvest beginning 8 October in ‘fantastic’ conditions. Malo in large wooden tanks then, after 12 months, transferred to new and second-use casks for another 12 months, then used casks for 5 years. 62,748 bottles, 2,000 magnums, 102 double magnums. From magnum. Mid to pale ruby. Really lively and exciting on the nose. It doesn’t taste bordelais but has real richness and the savoury tobacco leaf of Tempranillo. Really rather a thrilling wine! Perfect balance and still great life to it. Maybe the fruit is just starting to give way to acidity but it’s a wonderful whole now. (JR)