Wonderfully complete: spicy, balsamic red fruit aromas; an explosion in the mouth with the layers of tannin nicely meshed with the ripe fruit. Splendidly composed. At 30 years, just coming into itself nicely. This is a wine that reveals the longevity of the great Únicos. Warm spring with average to high rainfall. Harvest began 30 September in dry conditions with high temperatures. After fermentation it remained in large-capacity wooden vats for two years. American and French oak was used, although mainly American. Spent 16 months in new casks, two years in semi-new casks and three years in large-capacity wooden vats, then aged in bottle. 98,098 bottles, 2,222 magnums and 132 double magnums. Tasted from magnum.

The 1991 Único comes through as very classical in a Bordeaux sense (it contains 15% Cabernet Sauvignon); it's serious, austere, with contained ripeness, starting to show more tertiary notes and some development, really very good. It's a wine that could evolve in the style of the 1953, which is reminiscent of the 1985, but one gear below. The grapes were picked from the 30th of September in very warm weather, but the season saw enough rain. Very good. 2,222 magnums. Artwork from Francisco Iturrino.

Vega Sicilia's flagship offering, the 1991 Unico Reserva is a gorgeous, deep ruby/purple coloured, remarkably youthful effort offering sweet vanilla notes intertwined with black currants, cherry liqueur, flowers, spice box, and tobacco leaves. Full bodied and intense, with sweet tannin, outstanding density as well as purity, and a layered mouthfeel, this unevolved 1991 is a wine of great elegance as opposed to power. Anticipated maturity: Now-2029.

Dark red. Highly complex nose melds plum, cherry, roasted meat, iron, truffle, mocha and underbrush. Broad, sweet and concentrated, but not at all an exotic or supersweet vintage for Vega Sicilia. In fact, this smooth midweight has some rather intriguing, cool notes of minerals and botanical herbs. Finishes with fine, dusty tannins and excellent length. A much more polite style of wine than the chewy, powerful and considerably more explosive '89.

85% Tinto Fino, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Wetter-than-average summer but dry conditions at (early) harvest (30 September). Post fermentation 2 years in large-capacity wooden vats. American and French oak was used although mainly American. It was further aged for 16 months in new casks, 2 years in second-use casks and another 3 years in large-capacity wooden vats. 98,098 bottles, 2,222 magnums, 132 double magnums. From magnum. Heady and sweet and so vibrant. Real high-elevation wine that is – just – not too tart. Lots going on here – so energetic! (JR)