The 2006 DOIX Costers Vinyes Velles is displaying an attractive perfume, more floral than mineral, along with spicy red and black fruits. On the palate it is quite intense with more elevated acidity than its colleagues. Mas Doix has a story quite common in Priorat in which professional people living in the big cities return to reclaim the family heritage (and are having more fun than they ever did before). Mas Doix’s flagship cuvee is named DOIX Costers Vinyes Velles with an annual production of only 4-7,000 bottles. It is typically a blend of old-vine Garnacha and Carinena (80-108 years of age) with the proportions varying slightly from year to year. The wine is aged in 100% new French oak for 14-18 months. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

(50% carinena, 48% garnacha and 2% merlot) Saturated ruby. Exotic aromas of red and dark berry preserves, with incense and potpourri adding complexity; smells like very fancy oak. Sappy and deep, offering suave raspberry and candied boysenberry flavors, with cinnamon and mace gaining power in the glass. Tangy minerality adds lift to the finish, which leaves a sexy spicecake quality behind. Flat-out delicious stuff.