I had two vintages of the old-vine cuvée to taste side by side, starting with the 2014 Doix Costers de Vinyes Velles. Made of 55% Cariñena and 45% Garnacha from old vines on slopes on slate llicorella soils, the fermentation and aging are the same as for the centenary Carignan: fermentation in stainless steel with neutral yeasts and an élevage of 16 months in new French barriques. It has moderate alcohol and high acidity. It has already started developing some tertiary notes and shows some graphite and wet slate notes. The palate shows great balance, with concentration and freshness—what you're aiming for in a wine like this where pure power might be too much. 5,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2016.

55% Carignan and 45% Grenache, vines between 80 and 105 years old . Still dark purple. Notably mineral and savoury on the nose with the tannins just starting to melt. Sumptuous fruit. This is just entering its tertiary phase of refinement – almost claret-like build! (I mean structure not Cabernet flavours.) There is still the sucky-stony character but the complexity of the fruit is starting to dominate. Great moment to drink this. (JR)