The 2003 Contador (a meager 200 bottles for the American market) was sourced from three tiny parcels ranging in age from 65-80 years. It was fermented in new French barriques, aged for 12 months, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. The result is a spectacular wine with a remarkably expressive nose of pain grille, lead pencil, spice box, espresso, black currants, and wild blueberries that roars from the glass. The opulent palate is mouth-coating, thick, and full-flavored with the structure well-concealed by the masses of fruit. This legend in the making, while irresistible now, should evolve slowly over 2-3 decades much like a first growth Bordeaux and still be drinking at age 50. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Ruby with a bright rim. Remarkably complex nose combines cherry, raspberry liqueur, bitter chocolate, iron, graphite, cigar box, fruitcake, cured tobacco and smoked meat (I'm probably missing something). Deep, lush and staggeringly concentrated, the dense fruit flavors showing great energy and focus; this is the kind of clarity one finds in the greatest vintages of Chateau Margaux. Ridiculously sweet, fresh and long, ending with a dramatic display of sweet, concentrated and sharply delineated red and dark fruits. Just 2,000 bottles were imported.