Saturated ruby. Seductive, perfumed nose offers energetic scents of boysenberry, blueberry, mocha, lavender and white pepper. Suave dark fruit liqueur flavors are impressively focused and pure, with dark chocolate and coffee adding depth. Gains in brightness on the finish, where the sweet berry flavors hang on impressively. This shows remarkable poise.

The 2004 Contador is even better than the 2003 if that is possible. More expressive aromatically (a characteristic of 2004) this wine is more tightly wound and backward than the 2003. Unlike the 2003 it demands a minimum of a decade of cellaring and could well last for 75-100 years if well stored. Collectors will have a blast tasting these two wines side-by-side. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2004 Contador is even better than the 2003 if that is possible. More expressive aromatically (a characteristic of 2004) this wine is more tightly wound and backward than the 2003. Unlike the 2003 it demands a minimum of a decade of cellaring and could well last for 75-100 years if well stored. Collectors will have a blast tasting these two wines side-by-side.