The 2010 Viña Tondonia Reserva has all I expect from a Reserva from Tondonia, complexity, elegance and evolution, a developed nose with notes of forest floor and wild berries, herbs and flowers, a touch of iodine, brick dust and very fine, polished tannins. It has the seriousness and elegance of Tondonia. This is a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho (they use the masculine form of the name of the grape) and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo that fermented in the ancient oak vats from when the winery was created 144 years ago and matured in well-seasoned, American oak barrels for six years. It has 13% alcohol, a pH of 3.4 and 6.6 grams of acidity. 260,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2017.

One of the great ‘classic’ European vintages, 2010 was as fêted in Rioja as it was in Bordeaux; a great showcase, then, for one of the most enigmatic rosés in the world. Enigmatic why? Enigmatic because it is made in a breathtakingly unorthodox manner for a pink wine, oxidation encouraged at every stage, the biannual racking not merely cleansing impurity. Enigmatic because it is not released for a decade (longer in the case of previous vintages) and most importantly enigmatic because it is hauntingly delicious, Garnacha dominated with griotte precision, honied extravagance and citric freshness at the back. And, given that most of the rules have been challenged, I would challenge one to decant it at room temperature, and pretend that it is a red wine!

Viña Tondonia has over 100 hectares on the right bank of the River Ebro comprising 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Graciano and Mazuelo. Vines are between 438 and 489 m in elevation. The wine is matured for six years in used American Appalachian oak barrels. Mid bricky red. Classic traditional Rioja aroma: sweet senescent fruit, undergrowth, polished wood, dried fruits, almost nutty. Smooth, smooth tannins still have a very gentle friction, giving it shape and further longevity. Scented with age and red-fruit and old-oak sweetness. Extremely long and silky on the finish. Impossible not to love this wine. (JH)