The current release is the 1997 Gran Reserva 904, still densely colored and alluringly perfumed. Aromas of dried herbs, tobacco, incense, and assorted black fruits lead to a savory, spicy wine without the depth of the splendid 2001. La Rioja Alta was founded in 1890 in Haro, the capital of Rioja Alta, in close proximity to Lopez de Heredia and Marques de Riscal. The Bodega’s wines are all blends, there are no single vineyard wines, and all of the wines are produced from estate-grown grapes. During my visit in May, 2010, I had the opportunity to taste verticals of 2 of La Rioja Alta’s wines, Vina Ardanza Reserva and Gran Reserva 904. Vina Ardanza’s wines are labeled Reserva with three exceptions. In what La Rioja Alta considers the greatest years (there have been three to date, 2001, 1973, and 1964) the wine is called Reserva Especial. There are usually four vintages a decade of La Rioja Alta’s Gran Reserva 904. It is made from a blend of Tempranillo and Graciano and aged for 5 years in barrel and 5 years in bottle prior to release. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin, www.europvin.com

Bright red. Seductively perfumed nose offers a complex bouquet of dried cherry, vanilla, cola, potpourri, smoky minerals and cedar. Silky red berry and cherry flavors are sweetened by vanilla bean and take on tannic structure with air. Becomes deeper and riper on the impressively long, sweet, lightly chewy finish, which strongly echoes the cherry and vanilla qualities. I'd serve this with strongly seasoned grilled steak or lamb.

Lovely evolution and freshness. Sinewy and like a refreshing poultice on the palate somehow. Camomile aromas and real delicacy. Bravo! (JR)