The 2015 Gran Reserva 904 is a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano from Rioja Alta, aged for up to four years in American oak barrels. This garnet red wine with a brick sheen features an evolved and complex nose. It offers notes of cola, licorice, sour cherry and dried flowers, accompanied by hints of leather and herbs. On the palate, it is dry, silky and juicy, with fine-grained tannins and a chalky texture that lead to a nimble flow and a lingering finish. This is an old-school, precise Rioja that sets the standard for the region and will delight many a consumer.

I tasted again the 2015 Gran Reserva 904 Selección Especial, a blend of 90% Tempranillo from their vineyards in Villalba, Briñas and Rodezno, with 10% Graciano from the Montecillo Vineyard in Fuenmayor that was picked 23 days later than the Tempranillo that I had already tasted in mid-2022 before the wine was released. Time in bottle has done it some good, polishing the strong tannins that are the signature from 2015, though they are still not fully resolved, and a few more years in bottle will do it good. It's tasty, very classical, balanced and fresh. Impressive for such a powerful year. It was bottled in March 2020 after it matured in used American oak barrels for four years.

Truly succulent and structured, this has an expressive nose of camphor, vanilla, rose petals and tobacco leaves. These hover over a thick bed of meaty plum, fig and black olive. Cedar, buttered toast and Christmas cake play in the background. Fine and vivid acidity sustains freshness throughout. Lovely spicy layer of cinnamon, nutmeg and white pepper. will benefit from a few more years in bottle to hone its structure and tannins.

Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa . 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano. Four years in American oak. TA 5.5 g/l, RS 1 g/l. Pale crimson-brick hue. Lean and savoury, with pure red fruit – pomegranate – and a gentle salted-almond note. So elegant and long, with a deliciously salty finish. (FG)

Always happy to taste any of the Rioja Alta wines. No surprise that this is benchmark stuff. Great balance of sweet fruit, elegant oak and texture. (AWH)