The 2004 Torre Muga is not as powerful as the 2005 but displays better aromatics. It is loaded with spicy fruit with great depth and concentration, impeccable balance, and a lengthy, pure finish. Give it another 4-5 years of bottle age and drink it through 2034. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Saturated ruby. Exotically perfumed, syrah-like bouquet of red and dark berries, violet, smoky bacon and graphite, with a vanillin oak spice undertone adding an exotic touch. Fleshy, palate-staining cassis and bitter cherry flavors are brightened by piquant minerality and firmed by fine-grained tannins. Cracked pepper and mace qualities come up on the long, silky finish. Extremely suave and strikingly complex wine with excellent balance.

Top Muga cuvée, from 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 10% Graciano grown on the clay, alluvial and calcareous soils of the Alta. Hand-harvested in Oct 2004 at tiny yields (24hl/ha), fermented in oak with regular punchdowns and then macerated 21 days prior to racking into 100% new French oak barrels. 18 months in wood and at least another year in bottle. Suitable for vegetarians. TA 6.08g/l, pH 3.55. Very naughty heavy bottle and very bruising alcohol and tannin. Not for me. £42 Waitrose Wine Direct and 6 branches (JR)