Dark red. Wild, gamey red berry and cherry scents are complicated by leather, vanilla, baking spices and cured meat. Firm, sharply focused redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors slowly unwind to reveal smoky mineral and floral pastille character. Finishes sweet, spicy and very long.

The 2000 Prado Enea Gran Reserva is a bit rustic, not quite as savory, and finishes a bit more quickly. It is a good wine but weak in the context of this lineup. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Lovely classic tertiary Rioja aromas of leather, spice, moccha and autumn leaves but there’s still has a rich sweetness of spicy red fruit and. Wonderfully fresh, elegant and complex. Tannins are fine and rounded yet continue to provide good structure for further ageing. Julia Harding MW (JancisRobinson.com)

80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. Cherry and chocolate. Substance and volume. Great purity with lovely savoury chew on the finish. (RH)