The 2004 Reserva, according to Remirez is “?a great vintage, a lot of nerve, like 1994, that needed a long aging period”. Opaque purple in color, it offers up a splendid bouquet of sandalwood, incense, Asian spices, balsamic, and black cherry. Layered, opulent, and impeccably balanced, it is a monumental effort. Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza is one of Rioja’s benchmark estates. It encompasses about 132 acres located in four regions of Alava Rioja planted to approximately 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. The winery itself is located in the village of Samaniego. Upon my arrival at the Bodega in May 2010, I discovered a surprise. In addition to a vertical tasting of all the Reservas, Senor Remirez had prepared a similar vertical of Trasnocho, a wine that has never been exported to the USA. With all due respect, the greatest vintages from Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza in my opinion are 2004 and 2001. Trasnocho is Fernando Remirez de Ganuza’s take on a more contemporary style. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Delicately but noticeably floral: sweet smoky violet aromas and fresh cassis and blueberry fruit. Very nuanced and subtle on the nose. On the palate, elegant and fresh, restrained but persistent with vanilla and black fruit across the mid palate. (JH)