Since this wine launched its inaugural vintage last September, I have visited the vineyard, which is tucked in a 3.8ha limestone-dominant corner of the bigger Remelluri estate. You feel the fragrant herbs of the surrounding hills in the wine, breathing proof of terroir into the glass. It means I have tasted this vintage both from barrel at the estate, and now in bottle, and it confirms that this is an extremely special wine. The 2018 is now four years since harvest and still has the raspberry violet blush of a young wine. The fragrance hits you as soon as you wave your nose over the glass, with freshly cut rosemary, sage and tarragon, along with violets, roses, heather, lemongrass and mandarin peel - just so much complexity and nuance. Takes off through the palate, rising through the finish to give a mouthwatering sign off. This was the wine I was most looking forward to trying again for the September Releases, and it does not disappoint.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The second vintage by oenologist-winemaker Telmo Rodriguez, the 3.8-hectare, single-vineyard cuvée from the limestone foothills of the Sierra de Toloño in Rioja Alavesa made from a massal selection of Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, Granegro and Rojal. Heady and seductive nose, full and ripe, darkly fruited with a sweet vanilla caramel tone. Full, round and mouthfilling, this is gorgeous. It's generous so you get lots of flavour in the mouth, and the tannins are present, just fleshy and plump yet this retains a sense of style and grace. It's bold and powerful no doubt with clear concentration but stops short of being too much. Sweet, salty, dark fruited with chew and grip, all presented with such detail. You can feel a sense of sculpting, it has muscles and sinew, pulsing energy and a vitality that is thrilling and nicely counters the ripe fruit aspects. I like the clarity to the finish, it really leaves you wanting more. Characterful and contemplative.

Harvested 23–30 October. A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, Gran Negro and Rojal . Sweet and plump on both the nose and palate, this is a full and rich Rioja with leanings towards the modern, less oak-driven style. Ripe, with opulent fruit but good purity and balancing acids. There is real density of structure. The alcohol is a little warming and adds some jagged edges, but the chalky tannins and intensity of fruit are impressive. (TP)