Saturated purple. Room-filling bouquet of kirsch, dark berries, incense, floral oils and vanillin oak spices. Silky in texture, with admirably deep, focused red and dark fruit flavors complicated by sexy mocha and floral pastille qualities. Impressively elegant and fresh, finishing with outstanding persistence and a lingering cherry flavor. This boasts remarkable finesse for a wine with such palate impact.

The 2004 Calvario is a worthy follow-up to the 2003, with a dense bouquet of raspberry and dark plum laced with marmalade. The palate is very well-structured with fine tannins. It is infused with notes of crisp raspberry, dark plum and blackberry, with marmalade and dried mango loitering off-stage. It is long and sensual in the mouth, but its backbone suggests it will age well. Drink 2013-2025. Commencing with the Allende Blanc, I was impressed by how well this ages. Predominantly Viura with a higher percentage of Malvasia in older vintages, it develops a fine waxy texture and almost dried Barsac-like personality.

90% Tempramillo, 8% Garnacha. 2% Graciano – interplanted in a single 1.5-ha vineyard planted in 1945, and co-fermented. Wonderfully complex aromas – violets, slightly herbaceous, lots of pure black fresh fruit. Still firm yet well rounded tannins. Silky, fine-grained, long and elegant. (JH)