Saturated medium ruby. Cassis, black raspberry and bitter chocolate on the nose. Juicy, high-pitched and penetrating, with primal black fruit and licorice flavors and a youthfully grapey perfume in the middle palate. Long on flavor but still a bit clenched from the bottling and dominated by new oak. Should ultimately merit a higher score.

The impeccable 1999 Pagos Viejos (100% Tempranillo from 60+ year old vines, and aged in French oak) exhibits a dense ruby/purple color along with a sweet, Volnay-like bouquet of raspberries, cherries, minerals, and a hint of spicy wood. Medium-bodied, long, concentrated, and well-balanced, it will drink well for 5-7 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Developed, attractive, ripe and savoury. Beautiful, refreshing acid combined with lovely soft tannins, a real showboater! (RH)