Senor Lopez de Lacalle says of the 1998 El Pison, “it is ripe but sometimes the tannin is more evident, a very well defined tannin, more structured”. After a decade in the bottle, it is displaying a lovely, complex, room-filling bouquet. While more structured than the 2004 and 2007, it still is a silky offering with loads of flavor that appeals to both the intellect and the senses. It will continue providing pleasure for another 15-20 years. No visit to Rioja would be complete without a visit to Artadi and maestro Juan Carlos Lopez de Lacalle. Artadi’s most recent releases are the 2007s which were reviewed in Issue 183. On this occasion, we sampled the promising 2009s from barrel in addition to the 4 vintages of the flagship Vina El Pison (all of which have been previously reviewed, the 1995 and 1998 by Robert Parker). The El Pison comes from a single Tempranillo vineyard planted in 1945 on pure limestone. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

At the top of the Artadi hierarchy is this limited production cuvees. El Pison is Burgundian in its orientation. The 1998 El Pison is made from a Tempranillo vineyard planted in 1945, and aged 18-24 months in new French oak, from yields of only 22 hectoliters per hectare. It offers a deep ruby/purple color and a glorious nose of raspberry jam intermixed with cherries and smoky new oak. As the wine sits in the glass, more complex, floral aromas with a graphite-like character emerge. A sexy, elegant, medium to full-bodied, beautifully made wine transcends the Rioja appellation with a singular style and character. Drink it over the next 12-15 years. This is a classic, yet singular expression of Rioja the likes of which can be found nowhere else in that viticultural area. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

(from a vineyard planted in 1945 on chalky soil) Bright ruby. Floral, minerally flavors of red cherry, violet, dark chocolate, mustard seed and fresh herbs. Penetrating, tightly wound flavors of red cherry and red raspberry; a classy but very backward wine, aromatically precise but very difficult to taste today. Austere and subtly long on the finish. I suspect this highly perfumed Rioja will ultimately match the '98 Grandes Anades in quality.