2011 Artadi, Vina Pison, Rioja

The 2011 Vina El Pison was one of the first single-vineyard wines in Rioja (and in the whole of Spain as a matter of fact) and today it’s a famous vineyard throughout the world. It was planted by Juan Carlos Lopez de Lacalle’s grandfather in 1945. The 2.4 hectare vineyard is located in Laguardia at 480 meters above sea level. The grapes ferment in open wooden vats and the wine ages for 15 months in French oak barrels. The 2011 is unashamedly ripe, with intense aromas of violets and ripe black cherries, verging on the black olives, with plenty of notes of spices. It has a very clear and persistent note of cinnamon and vanilla. It improves greatly with air and time in the glass. The palate reveals some grainy tannins, bright acidity, medium to full-bodied, with an intense, extra-long finish. Drink 2016-2028. I tasted Artadi’s 2010s and 2011s, as they seem to be selling the new vintages very fast and they even sell part of their wines en primeur. 2010, 2011 and 2012 have been very dry years. I didn’t have the chance to taste any 2012s, but I look forward to doing so the next time around. 2011 seems to be more fruit forward, more primary, without the complexity and depth of the 2010s, which were very elegant and is a superb vintage for Artadi. There are differences in texture between the two years, 2010 being more gentle, rounder and silkier and 2011 a bit wilder with a touch of rusticity. When it comes to production methods, only Tempranillo is used (except for the white which is produced exclusively with Viura), they destemmed all the grapes, the press wine never makes it into the final blends, and they only use French oak barrels. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700; www.foliowine.com

2.4 ha planted by his grandfather in 1945. Slowly acquired more and more from rest of family. 1991 was the first year they produced it, having acquired it in 1981. Yields 45 hl/ha, a bit more than the single vineyards because of the site's 'energy'. Deep soil. Protected exposition, almost like a clos. Just outside Laguardia. Pison is the hammer of a mill. Dark crimson. Scented and very intense. Very rich and sweet and super charming. Not transparent, different from traditional rioja but very convincing and rich. Complete. A bit like a blend of brambles and Marmite – in a nice way. (JR)