The 2003 was declassified and blended into the Allende, so moving swiftly on, the 2004 Aurus has a classy bouquet of dark plum, lavender, dried herbs and spice box that is very complex and satisfying. The palate is medium-bodied with taut tannins and impressive purity: dark cherry and dark plum infused with marmalade and white pepper. The finish is dense and backward, suggesting that it requires four to five years bottle age. Drink 2015-2025+ Commencing with the Allende Blanc, I was impressed by how well this ages. Predominantly Viura with a higher percentage of Malvasia in older vintages, it develops a fine waxy texture and almost dried Barsac-like personality.

(85% tempranillo and 15% graciano) Opaque violet. Smoky cherry and cassis on the nose, with complicating licorice, cinnamon, rose and black tea qualities. Tangy, finely etched red and dark berry flavors display impressive depth and clarity, picking up a zesty cracked pepper character with air. A very fresh Rioja with outstanding finishing sweetness and length. Here's another wine from Allende that has uncanny finesse allied to power.

85% Tempranillo, 15% Graciano. 24 months in new French oak. Very attractive deep crimson. Smoke and spice over rich blackcurrant fruit. Soft but still fresh. Fine, ripe and rounded but a little warm on the finish. (JH)