The 2010 Altos de Lanzaga is sourced from four different vineyards that they feel show the character of Lanciego, their idea of a grand cru. Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano from head-pruned, 70-year-old vines worked following biodynamic principles that ferment naturally – no external yeasts are added to any of their wines – in 3,000-kilo oak vats for 20 days and aged for 18 months in 1,500-liter oak foudres and 225-liter barriques. The wine ages very slowly, in a very cold cellar, so it might take a year to carry out malolactic (the temperature in the cave is 12-14º C all year around). It’s a deep, austere, mineral-driven wine with a complex nose with subtle aromas of soil, fresh red and black fruit notes and a whiff of spices in very good balance. In the palate it is very tight, fine, long with silky tannins, somehow closed. Fruit, fermentation and wood seem to play a secondary role in the wine that speaks mainly of the place. This might not be a wine for everybody, but I think it’s super! Drink 2016-2027. Telmo Rodriguez and his partner Pablo Eguzkiza produced some exceptional wines in 2010, which is no surprise, as they have been going from strength to strength in the last few years. The surprise is a new single vineyard bottling from Rioja; I think they have finally fulfilled their dream (I remember hearing this from Telmo 15 years ago) to have the privilege to own some exceptional vineyards and produce small quantities of wines from them. They now have As Caborcas in Valdeorras, Las Beatas in Rioja, and others will come from Ribera del Duero, from Cebreros. Some exciting wines are in the pipeline. Imported by Vintus Wine, Pleasantville NY; tel. (914) 769-3000; vintuswines.com