With half of the base wine aged in used Burgundy barrels, the 2019 vintage exudes hints of flint, unveiling a white fruit-driven nose of Nashi pears, white blossom, and citrus, along with a honeyed undertone. Vibrant and crisp on the palate, with crunchy green apple and star fruit. A dosage of 6g/l and brioche notes rounds off the edges, finishing with cleansing crushed almond. Drink 2024-2027

The smoky, marine-scented aromas, like rain on windswept coastal cliffs, have goosebumps tingling down my neck before I've even sipped the wine. So racy it takes your breath away. White-knuckle tension, white-shell minerality, white stone fruit and long, long, sweet pithy tannins. Power in structure: salt-crusted verticality, a whisper of honey across the endless breadth. It feels like licking chiselled marble. Stern, high-cheek-bone beauty. There is so much tension in the wine that it feels like it might snap in your mouth; it feels like the crack of a whip splitting a white winter sky. I'd strongly urge laying this down for as long as you dare. If you drink it now, don't chill it as much as you might champagne and, if you can, allow it to open in the glass. I've been tasting a very large number of top-notch grower champagnes recently and by comparison the Sugrue wines, every bit as good, are underpriced (for which read VGV). Drink 2025-2035