The 2021 Chardonnay Lauren is a rich, phenolic wine. Readers will have to be patient, as the Lauren is packed with fruit and structure. Orchard fruit, chamomile, dried flowers, mint, sage and dried pear build into the rich, palate-staining finish. The Lauren has a textural intensity that makes it feel almost like a red wine. Historically, the Lauren has been one of the best agers here.

Planted on the site of a former orchard in 1999–2000, the 2021 Chardonnay Lauren Estate includes four different selections of Chardonnay (Hyde Old Wente, Montrachet, Mount Eden and Hudson), all barrel-fermented and aged in 80% new French oak. Scents of crushed stone, white peaches, ripe pineapples and fresh lime all appear on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is plush and opulent, concentrated yet incredibly long, vibrant and mouthwatering on the finish. This is really special, a true "wow" wine that—at least for this taster—sets a new standard for how good California Chardonnay can be.