The 2003 Melbury comes from a slopeside site on the northern side of Lake Hennessey, opposite the Rutherford valley floor. Winemaker Bob Levy compares the 2003 to the 2006 because of the wet winter and spring and the summer’s heat spikes. A brilliant effort from sedimentary soil with rocks over compacted clay, it is a gorgeous wine offering raspberry, black currant, spring flower and blueberry characteristics along with a dense purple color, a full-bodied, multilayered mouthfeel and sweet tannin. This stunningly rich hillside Cabernet Sauvignon should reach full maturity in 4-5 years and keep for 15-20 years thereafter. The single vineyard wines represent Bill Harlan’s concept of offering single vineyard, micro-climate/terroir-based wines from distinctive sectors of Napa Valley. Tel. (707) 944-1441

The 2003 is one of the most enjoyable Melburys for drinking today. Fat, rich and unctuous on the palate, the 2003 retains surprising textural layers to play off the nuanced, complex aromatics. Mocha, truffle, spice and leather shape the exotic finish. The 2003 is not especially polished, but it is quite tasty. My impression is that the 2003 will always carry a trace of tannin from the heavily extracted style that BOND favored during this era.

Saturated red with ruby tones. Distinctly spicy scents of plum, mocha and graphite minerality. Supple in texture but without the sweetness or give of the 2005 and 2004 versions. The strong spice element carries through on the palate, which displays a slightly medicinal quality to its currant, menthol and licorice flavors. Finishes with a strong dusting of tannins. This still needs to expand a bit in bottle.