1992 Dominus, Napa Valley

Production from the 124-acre Napanook Vineyard reached 6,500 cases in 1992 and 10,000 cases in 1994, a figure this winery has been building toward since the debut releases of 1983 and 1984. The 1992 Dominus is similar in style to the 1990. It exhibits an open knit, opulent, rich, easy-going character with gorgeous levels of earthy, cassis fruit intertwined with scents of herbs, coffee, and chocolate/mocha ice cream. Rich and full-bodied, with thick, viscous flavors and low acidity, this is a forward, exceptionally concentrated, easy to understand Dominus that should drink well for 20 years. It appears that Christian Moueix has settled into an identifiable Dominus style (the lavish ripeness routinely achieved in northern California, with the texture of a great Pomerol) since the 1990 vintage. Although older vintages have a similarity to more recent vintages, the older wines possess harder tannin than is present today. The 1993 crop was declassified and sold off in bulk, surprising in view of the fact that many great 1993 Napa Cabernets were produced. Tel. (707) 944-8954; Fax (707) 944-0547

The 1992 Dominus is gorgeous, bursting from the glass in a blaze of mentholated black cherries, loamy soil and forest floor, and following through on the palate with a compelling marriage of bright fruit and a supple, expansive texture. The cooler vintage has made for a great deal of aromatic complexity and capacity to refresh, without losing any Napa generosity. Delicious wine.

Very deep red-ruby. Very complex aromas of raspberry, licorice, road tar, lead pencil and mint; a faint vegetal nuance adds to its complexity. Fat, supple, sweet and mouthfilling, but can't match the '94 for sheer substance, nuance or depth. Finishes powerful and very ripe, with dusty, substantial tannins and a hint of alcohol. This will age more on its tannins than on its rather soft acidity.