1994 Dominus, Napa Valley

I have had a difficult time keeping the corks in my bottles of 1994 Dominus. Eight thousand cases were produced from a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. In this vintage, 174 days passed between bud break and harvest, a remarkable period of time for any wine region in the world. The 1994 is a strikingly thick, compellingly rich wine with the texture of a great Pomerol, despite being made primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine exhibits a dense purple colour and an incredibly fragrant nose of jammy black fruits, spice, smoke, and loamy, trufffle like scents. In the mouth, it is full bodied, with thrilling levels of extract and richness, but no sense of heaviness or harshness. This seamless Dominus possesses no edges, as its acidity, tannin and alcohol are beautifully meshed with copious quantities of ripe fruit. The wine offers early drinking, yet has the potential to last for another 25+ years.

I have had the 1994 (8,000 cases produced) on four separate occasions. It will be interesting to see if this wine outdistances the phenomenal 1991. 1994 enjoyed an incredibly long growing season (Moueix points out that there were 174 days between the bud break at Dominus and the harvest). A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, and 4% Petite Verdot, the 1994 is a profoundly rich beauty that is made more in the image of Pomerol than the tiny percentage of Merlot in the blend would suggest. The wine possesses a thick-looking, dark purple color, a fabulous nose of earth, sweet, jammy black fruits, and spicy, fruitcake-like aromas. When the wine hits the palate, the silky quality to the tannin, marvelous wealth of rich extract, jammy fruit, glycerin, and layered, full-bodied feel leave little to be desired. This fabulous wine is remarkably precocious and supple, with all its component parts in balance. This is a riveting, profoundly great example of a California Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine. It should drink well young, yet easily age for 20-25 years. Tel. (707) 944-8954; Fax (707) 944-0547

Deep garnet-brick colored, this has quite a perfumed nose with notes of potpourri, game, anise, baking spices and kirsch plus hints of toast and yeast extract. Generously fruited and full bodied, it offers a medium-firm level of grainy tannins, crisp acid and a long, layered finish.

Still a youthful, deep, ruby-black, the 1994 Dominus explodes with blackberry, cassis and truffle notes, along with some rustic sous bois and leather. This Bordeaux-styled wine is rich and intense but classically proportioned; though it is somewhat more rustic and heady than the stunning 1991. Edouard Moeiux advises serving this wine at a relatively cool temperature.

Tasted blind at The Arches in London. A dark garnet core, much more opaque than I was expecting. The nose soars from the glass: meaty, savoury, touches of peppermint lacing the ripe blackberry fruit. Great definition. The palate is full-bodied with a soft entry, superb structure with Asian spice, white pepper. It does actually remind me of a Pomerol towards the off-dry finish. Great length and vigour: a wine with a long, long future ahead. Drink 2014-2030+ Tasted February 2009.