The generosity of 2012 comes through in the Chardonnay Keefer Ranch. Layered and expressive in the glass, the 2012 is beautifully generous and resonant from start to finish. The Keefer stands out for the way it balances a typically Russian River expression of overt fruit with lovely underlying energy.

Light-medium bright yellow. Sexy but subdued nose offers apricot, lemon, hazelnut and spices, plus a suggestion of jasmine tea. A bit more intensely flavored than the Hudson Vineyard offering, with a touch more sweetness of fruit and attractive floral lift to its lemon and white peach flavors. Nicely perfumed, lightly saline chardonnay with a dusty, fine-grained finish showing good grip.

Pure and focused, with a supple core of green apple, lemony citrus, spice, creamy oak and vanilla notes. Ends long and lingering, with a juicy core of fruit. Drink now through 2020. 480 cases made. JL April 2015

Ripe, fleshy white fruit with a lot of caramel poured on top. Just enough snap from acid to clean up the finish. (RH)