The 1997 Harlan Estate has long been a controversial wine because of some bottle variation. There is no question about this 1997 magnum. The wine is unquestionably extraordinary. Rich and opulent to the core, the 1997 possesses tremendous intensity from start to finish. Blackberry jam, licorice, chocolate and sweet spice lead into a crescendo of aromas and flavors on the finish.

Full ruby color. Extravagant aromas of black plum, black raspberry, licorice and expensive oak. Extraordinary sweetness and lushness in the mouth; texture like liquid velvet. Still taking shape, but already shows lovely harmony of components. One of the longest wines I tasted on my late winter tour of Napa Valley. Silky tannins are buried under a tidal wave of fruit.

I tasted through the component parts of the 1997 Harlan Estate, and everything fell within the 92-96 category. This wine reveals the more evolved aromatics typical of the 1997 vintage. The sensational fragrance (coffee, smoked herbs, nuts, creme de cassis, plum liqueur, and pain grille) is more intense and forthcoming than any previous Harlan Estate vintage. The tannin is silky, and the wine is stunningly concentrated and proportioned, but on a faster evolutionary track than its siblings. I will have another look at the 1997 after the wine has had time to mesh together. It should be another candidate for 20+ years of cellaring. Proprietor Bill Harlan, his winemaker, Bob Levy, and consultant, Frenchman Michel Rolland continue to produce what may be the single most profound wine in California. This wine possesses all the elements of greatness - individuality, power combined with elegance, extraordinary complexity, remarkable aging potential, and compelling richness without ponderousness. The vintages produced to date give signs of improving in the bottle for 20-30+ years. In 1995, a second wine, which has not yet been named, has been produced, which allows the selection process to be even more severe once the 35-acre vineyard is in full production. Recent production has been 1,500 cases for the 1994, 1,200 cases for the 1995, 1,500 for the 1996, and approximately 2,500 cases for the 1997. Many readers who have been on the waiting list for Harlan Estate may finally receive an allocation in 1997. This year produced the highest yields to date (a still modest 2.7 tons per acre) at this hillside vineyard. Tel. (707) 944-1441; Fax (707) 944-1444

Here we go. This is pure Napa on the nose: rich black fruits, raspberry, mulberry, a touch of black olive and a hefty dose of new oak. The palate is admittedly well balanced with a firm, dense structure, very opulent with layers of toasty black fruit, touches of cassis and even a touch of turmeric towards the slightly savoury finish, but I find little in the way of tension, crispness or freshness. This Cabernet expends a great deal of effort in impressing, but to me it’s like joining the dots rather than painting a picture. Drink now-2018. Tasted June 2010.

Magnum. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, remainder: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. With a lightly candied nose, notes of violet and lavender as well as butter-cooked mushrooms carry across the palate. Vibrant acidity washes a palate of powder-fine and persistent tannin integrated with spice. A bit of pepper emerges in the finish. This is the first vintage (going young to old) in which the alcohol is evident through a touch of heat on the close. Allow plenty of air upon opening and enjoy slowly to allow the wine to evolve in the glass. (ECB)

The 1997 Harlan Estate is one of the greatest Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines I have ever tasted. A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the rest Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this enormously-endowed, profoundly rich wine must be tasted to be believed. Opaque purple-colored, it boasts spectacular, soaring aromatics of vanilla, minerals, coffee, blackberries, licorice, and cassis. In the mouth, layer after layer unfold powerfully yet gently. Acidity, tannin, and alcohol are well-balanced by the wine's unreal richness and singular personality. The finish exceeds one minute. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2030.