Saturated ruby to the rim. Outstanding floral lift to the aromas of cassis, licorice, menthol and pungent minerality. Very pure, primary and high-pitched, but already boasts an extraordinarily fine-grained texture, reflecting both the vintage and the site. Most impressive today on the palate-saturating finish, which features wonderfully silky tannins and great mounting persistence.

The 2009 Proprietary Blend Harlan Estate is just as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel. Cloves, dark plums, cherries, smoke and graphite add richness and resonance to this powerful, incisive wine. Juicy and exuberant, the 2009 has always had a certain raciness that is impossible to resist. Layers of fruit continue to build to the enveloping, sensual finish. Readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off this hugely delicious wine.

Magnum. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, remainder: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. A bit more warmth, cocoa and spice to the overall profile here and broader brushstrokes to the presentation as well. There is a shift in the flavour profile where the blue, purple or black fruits that had been apparent in the younger vintages have begun to turn towards earthy elements, powdery exotic spices, cocoa and gunmetal – the first subtle hints of ageing. A bit of pepper emerges on the finish but remains pleasant. The 2009 vintage has a lot of strength to it and feels full of power, especially after the finer-boned vintages described above that succeeded it. There is a building and savoury presence that extends the finish. This will do well with waiting a bit before opening though you could drink it now alongside food. (ECB)