Austere on the opening beats, still closed down at this point, allow it to take a few breaths before the tannic frame opens up. The concentration and spice of the vintage see the black Cabernet fruits shot through with grilled sandalwood, cocoa bean, tea, cigar box and cloves, emphasising the concentration and power of this magical site. The winemaking team with director Philippe Bascaules have teased nuance and freshness alongside, with pomegranate and oyster shell adding a rising curve of juice through the finish. As ever it is hard to resist. Francis Ford Coppola owner. All aged in French oak barrels, 75% new. Jane Anson, July 2023.

So perfumed with lavender, violets, bark and blackcurrants. Some mint and spearmint. It’s medium- to full-bodied with integrated tannins and a gorgeous finish. Lovely finesse and texture. This is extremely well done for a 2020. So drinkable now. Drink or hold. April 2023.

The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Rubicon is a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot. According to winemaking consultant Chris Phelps, nothing picked after September 27 (the day the Glass Fire ignited) went into the final blend. The wine is marked by the season's heat, though, with dark chocolate nuances overlaid on notes of charred cedar, cassis and black cherries. This full-bodied effort is concentrated and long, but it does exhibit a slightly coarse texture. Joe Czerwinski, June 2023.