Wine Advocate December, 2012 The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Cuvee covers every inch of the palate with layers of dark, mineral-infused fruit, crushed rocks, violets and tar. The 2010 doesn’t have any of the early accessibility or pure sensuality of the 2009, instead it is a big, structured wine that calls for cellaring. I don’t see the 2010 giving much pleasure before age ten. Readers who can wait will be rewarded with a spectacular Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.

The 2010 Estate Cuvee State Lane Vineyard (100% Cabernet Sauvignon; 13.5% alcohol, identical to 2009) is a tightly knit, rich, dense, Bordeaux-inspired effort with a cooler climate mouthfeel as well as hints of bouquet garni, black currants, white chocolate, cassis and spicy oak. Some serious tannins kick in in the finish, so forget it for 3-4 years and drink it over the following two decades. I expect my rating may look conservative in 5-6 years. It is hard to believe the Kapcsandy family, of Hungarian descent, purchased this property previously known as State Lane Vineyard in Yountville (15.5 acres alongside the Yountville cross roads) in May, 2000. They have been on a winning track ever since the first releases. The harvest dates at Kapcsandy will give readers a specific indication of how cool 2009, 2010 and 2011 were. That began to change with 2012 and continues with an earlier, riper harvest in 2013 as well. In 2009, Kapcsandy harvested their small vineyard in Yountville between the beginning of October and October 29. In 2010, the harvest for the most serious wines began on October 19 and ended November 4. In 2011 it was even more significant, with the harvest starting in early October, but not finishing for some cuvees until October 27. In 2012, the harvest began in September, which is more normal, but unfurled over a full month, finishing October 25. Kapcsandy’s 2010s, like many of the Bordeaux varietals in Napa Valley, are exceptionally successful. This was my first look at these 2010s (almost all of them from bottle) and it has turned out to be a sensational vintage of deep, rich, full-bodied wines that are very expressive and focused with plenty of aging potential. It is a less glamourous and exuberant vintage compared to 2007 or 2002, but may evolve along the wines of the great 2001s which were more closed, firm and restrained. Nevertheless, it’s a vintage to jump on as most of the wines are just hitting the market in 2013 and early 2014. A more mixed vintage, the quality in 2011 is much more irregular than one normally sees in Napa Valley. Kapcsandy’s wines turned out well, although overall the ratings are the lowest I have given their wines since they started producing estate wines. Lou Kapcsandy and his son Louis said they did a Draconian selection process that began in the vineyard with radical leaf pulling and a selection of only the ripest bunches because the vintage was so challenging. Kapcsandy’s 2012s appear to be the finest wines they have made since the 2007s. Readers should keep an eye out for Kapcsandy’s two Rose cuvees, which are made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Tel. (707) 948-3100