Chateau Montelena has made so many sensational Cabernets that it seems almost impossible to believe that their 1987 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate could be even more profound than any of the exceptional wines made previously at this property. The black/purple color, the extraordinary bouquet of rich cassis, violets, and licorice, the massive extraction of flavors, sensational depth, super ripeness, and a length that must last over a minute, suggest to me that this is easily the most concentrated and potentially longest-lived Cabernet Sauvignon that Chateau Montelena has ever made. The extract level is incredible, yet the balance is there. Anticipated maturity: 1997-2025. Much of Chateau Montelena's production goes to restaurants, but this wine clearly belongs in any Cabernet enthusiast's cellar. Bo knows Cabernet, as this is a winemaking tour de force! There is something reassuring about seeing a bottle of Chateau Montelena. This classic, old Napa Valley winery is best known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, but they can also fashion wonderful Chardonnay from the Alexander and Napa valleys.

Medium red with an amber edge. Musky scents of redcurrant, raspberry, dried flowers, graphite and brown spices convey an element of surmaturité. A step up in thickness from the '86, showing noteworthy intensity but also a suggestion of dehydrated fruit. This tastes like a reduction of Cabernet owing to the small crop. Finishes with building, tongue-saturating tannins and a balsamic quality. Offers surprising verve, at least in part due to acidification (Barrett described the fruit in '87 as "acid-deficient"). Incidentally, the vines here were dry-farmed until the estate began installing irrigation in 1991. A second bottle tasted about two weeks later showed a healthier dark red color; smooth, claret-like flavors of dark berries, black cherry, tobacco, minerals and herbs; and plenty of dusty tannins. It came across as a bit fresher than the sample at the winery, which I scored 90 points. (14% alcohol)