The 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is slightly less impressive than when I tasted it last year, although still an outstanding wine. I may have caught it at a closed stage following bottling. There are 15,000-20,000 cases of Reserve Cabernet made, and in 1995, a quintessentially elegant style has been produced. The wine is less weighty than the 1994, 1991, or 1990. It has great promise and raw materials, with superb fruit and richness, medium body, and subtle lead pencil notes to go along with black currant, mineral, and pain grille scents and flavors. Based on this tasting, I would lower my overall rating, but it is still an exceptional California Cabernet Sauvignon made in a compellingly elegant, graceful style. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2018. Mondavi is adding a number of new regionally labeled Cabernet Sauvignons to their portfolio. In addition to their Oakville cuvee, they have a Stags Leap District Cabernet, and a single vineyard wine from their famed To-Kalon plantation. Tel. (707) 259-9463 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007.

Deep, saturated red-ruby. Lively, complex aroma dominated by blackcurrant, licorice and tobacco. Sweet and quite deep but very tightly wrapped. Much more difficult to taste than it was prior to bottling. Finishes with tongue-saturating tannins. Very firmly structured; today, the wine acids and tannins have not yet harmonized. A drier, serious style of cabernet, in need of bottle aging.