Confident tannic structure, sure of itself and its sense of place. This is a gorgeous wine, has real punch and character, with tobacco, cigar box, Christmas spice, juice, tension and a pulse of electriticty. Continues the muscular feel that began with the 1987 vintage, coupled with spice and generosity, and is both joyful and complete. Tertiary notes are here also, of soot, tobacco, forest floor. This is subtle, steals up on you, and overcomes you with its charm. A year that saw an early bud break, dry and cool growing season but relatively early harvest because of drought. A brililant vintage and it really does live up to hype. Loved it last time I tasted it and it is even better on this tasting. 23 days skin contact, winemakers Patrick Léon and Tim Mondavi.

One of the highlights in this tasting, the 1987 Opus One is simply gorgeous. Cinnamon, cloves, cigar box, cedar, menthol, licorice and pine all flesh out in a deeply expressive, resonant Opus One of the highest level. I am amazed at how young, vibrant and utterly impeccable the 1987 is. The tannins remain alive, so there is no problem in cellaring bottles for another decade, perhaps longer. At times, the 1987 is a bit rough around the edges, but there is so much exuberance in the fruit that it is easy to overlook some of the wine's admittedly small imperfections. This compelling Opus One hits all the right notes. The blend is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Merlot.

In Asia July, 2009 Deep garnet-brick. Mature Cabernet notes of warm cassis, dried herbs, mushrooms, black pepper and sweaty saddles. The medium to full bodied palate provides plenty of gamey, dried berry fruit with a medium level of silky tannins and medium to high acidity. Great balance. Long finish. Drink now to 2013. Tasted April 2009.