(14.5% alcohol; 30% new oak): Pale, bright yellow. Discreet scents of lemon, clove and minerals. Slightly richer in the mouth than the 2013 but also comes across as bone-dry, with the lemon curd and mineral flavors displaying lovely precision and subtle oakiness. An impeccably balanced Chardonnay but today the wine's fruit is quite restrained. This youthfully imploded Chardonnay will need a few more years in bottle to approach its peak and should also age very well.

Ramey's 2012 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard impresses for its freshness and verve, but at the same time, there is plenty of texture, raciness and body, all signatures of this renowned Carneros site. I imagine the 2012 will still be fabulous at age ten. Today, the Hyde is surprisingly backward and unevolved.

There are 1,280 cases of the 2012 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard. It reveals a slight greenish hue to the light straw color as well as copious notes of tangerine oil, orange marmalade, pineapple and citrus. With steely acidity, and a full-bodied, texture, heady finish, it should drink well for 6-7 years.

More intense than the 2011 Platt Vineyard Chardonnay tasted just before. (JR)