The 2012 Chardonnay Bent Rock Sta. Rita Hills is a stunning effort that has fantastic tension and focus in its mineral-laced citrus peel, stone fruits, warm spice and brioche-styled aromas and flavors. As with all of the Sandhi releases, it has fabulous purity of fruit and a layered, lightly textured, silky feel. It too should drink nicely through 2019, although I see no need to hold off. Looking at the Pinot Noirs, all of the 2012s shows beautiful purity and integrated acidity, with a big slant toward the lighter textured, elegant end of the spectrum. Tel. (805) 686-3086; www.sandhiwines.com

Light yellow-gold. A heady, exotic bouquet evokes dried pear, orange zest, iodine and beeswax, along with sexy mineral and floral overtones. Sappy, palate-staining citrus and orchard fruit flavors show excellent clarity and power, picking up notes of anise, green almond and sweet butter with air. The taut, minerally finish displays serious tension and focus, plus a lingering smoky mineral note.

The 2012 Chardonnay Bentrock is at once the most overt of the Sandhi Chardonnays and also the most mineral. Readers will need to be patient here, as the elements haven't fully come together. This exposed, high-altitude site on one of the plateaus in the Sta. Rita Hills yields distinct wines that need time in bottle to unwind.

Very dense yet gently rendered fruit – has an effortless force to the palate. Pretty closed and clenched right now, but definitely has the substance of future greatness. (RH)