The 1995 Hillside Select has settled into its plateau of maturity, and now is a good time to approach it. Notes of cassis, black raspberry and pencil shavings are followed by a full-bodied, rich but savoury palate with supple tannins and nicely balanced acidity.

Deep ruby. Aromatic, nuanced, higher-pitched aromas of blackcurrant, cassis and licorice. Youthful black fruit flavors given shape and delineation by lively acids. Firm, fresh and very long. At once big and subtle. In comparison with the '96, this wine substantial, dusty tannins reach more of the mouth. Not as extravagantly dense and ripe as the '94, but compelling cabernet nevertheless, and likely to be long-lived.

Very, very deep crimson. Very, very sweet nose. Seems rounder than the 1994. Very explosive. Youthful. Great balance. Vital. Reminds me of young Lafite. Very, very energetic. (JR)