An absolute blockbuster of a wine, the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select is still youthfully purple-hued and has awesome aromatics of sweet currants, minty herbs, tobacco, and lead pencil shavings. This full-bodied, concentrated Hillside Select is cut from the same cloth as the 2002 and is opulent, has sweet, velvety tannins, flawless overall balance, and an incredible finish. It certainly has another 10-15 years of longevity, but this clearly is in its sweet spot in my view. It's another heavenly Cabernet Sauvignon from this talented team that I wish every reader could taste.

Shafer's 1997 Hillside Select is a magisterial wine, and my favourite example of this cuvée. Seriously endowed with fine-grained tannins, it needs some time in the decanter to open up, but when it does the aromatic display of cassis, blackberry, spring flowers and woodsmoke is magical. On the palate this wine is undeniably massive, but its savoury tannins confer a more classical character to the wine than one finds in, say, the super-ripe 2002 or 2007 vintages at this address. The 1997 Hillside is ageing very gracefully indeed, without any trace of over-ripeness or heat, and may even be a few years away from its profound best. It's a reference point for modern California Cabernet, and certainly one of the wines of the vintage.

Saturated ruby. Inky aromas of black and bitter cherry, menthol and nut skin. Dense, thick and supple, with powerful underlying structure; still rather imploded on the palate but this possesses explosive fruit. Great fat and richness. Essence of Stags Leap cabernet. Finishes very long, with lush, thoroughly ripe tannins. A great young California cabernet.