Deep garnet colored, the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon leaps from the glass with notions of minted cassis, chocolate box, rose hip tea and forest floor over a core of kirsch, Black Forest cake, dried Mediterranean herbs and mossy bark. Medium-bodied, lithe and refreshing in the mouth, the palate has wonderful freshness and a lovely mineral-tinged finish. Still very youthful.

New winemaker Aron Weinkauf started in a vintage that has been excessively maligned, despite evidence of very strong efforts produced in the 2011 vintage, including the 2011 Spottswoode, which is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Nearly 3,300 cases were produced. As the complete younger vines began producing at full-throttle, the wine offers up loads of blueberry and blackcurrant fruit, is a trifle more compact than the 2010 or for that matter the 2012, 2013 or 2014. It shows admirable purity, plenty of floral blackcurrants that this property is known for and beautiful texture in a medium to full-bodied style. Rain at harvest seems to have had no impact on the quality of this wine. It probably won’t be as long-lived as some of the exceptional years, but it is certainly set for another 20 years of deliciousness.

Even tasted blind, the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon is obviously from a cooler vintage, showing some slightly drying, astringent tannins and more herbal notes than usual. The cherry fruit is redder tinged, the tannins less creamy and more pronounced, but one would have to consider this medium to full-bodied wine a solid example of Spottswoode nonetheless, and a huge success in the context of the vintage.

Aron Weinkauf’s first vintage in charge. A cool, wet vintage that has grown in repute. 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. Dark purplish. Lovely nose though it finishes just a little lean and leathery. Almost Syrah-like with a vibrant minty note. On first encountering it I gave it 17.5 and wrote, ‘if you tasted this in isolation you’d love it’. Then over an hour or so it really filled out in the glass. (JR)