The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon is soft, understated and classy, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next 15-20 years. The purity of the red-fleshed fruit is striking, as is the wine's freshness and overall silkiness. All of the elements are so well balaned. The 2017 naturally doesn't have the pedigree or breadth of the very best years, but it is an absolute pleasure to taste.

The 2017 Ulysses Cabernet Sauvignon from Oakville is clearly a child of its growing season, which generally witnessed warm temperatures and a record-setting heat spike of over 44C in early September, causing the fruit to ripen rapidly, reducing yields and upping the concentration. The 2017 incarnation of this perennially excellent red shows the heat of the vintage in its red-fruited profile, which is lifted with blue fruit aromatics and sweet tobacco on the nose. The medium-bodied palate offers red currants, spiced plums, cranberry, and pomegranate notes tinged with dried sage and clove. The tannins have a crispness to them—an edginess, even—and need time to resolve. The finish is long, with an intriguing agave note layered with a turned earth-richness. Best to enjoy over the next 5-8 years.

Christian Moueix’s signature and the Oakville provenance added to the front label from 2017. Very wet winter led to luxuriant vine growth. Many a heatwave and a record-breaking temperature of 112 °F on 1 September, which meant sorting and selection after picking 15 September to 3 October were essential. 1,000 cases produced. Deep, glowing, dark garnet. Very rich and ripe with a slightly charred edge and a drying finish. This tastes as though the grapes got really, really ripe and it must have been quite a challenge to get them off the vine in good shape. A bold wine for fans of stereotypical Napa Cab? (JR)