Verite’s spin on a Bordeaux St.-Emilion, the 2004 Le Desir (again sourced from the same three sites as its siblings) is a blend of nearly equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon and even a touch of Malbec. The deepest of this trio, it boasts a plum/purple hue along with a big, sweet nose of Christmas spices intermixed with black currant jam, sweet cherries, incense, Allspice, licorice, and herbs. Powerful, full-bodied, and opulent, in terms of its phenolics, it is as tannic and extracted as La Joie. However, the fruit seems to be more noticeable, and there is a degree of opulence present that La Joie will not reveal for a few more years. The beautiful Le Desir combines full-bodied power with the sweetness of mountain-styled, cool climate California fruit and French savoir-faire when it comes to structure and winemaking. Give it 2-3 years of bottle age and enjoy it over the following 15-20 years. Previously recommended: 2003 Le Desir (94+), 2003 La Joie (95+), 2003 La Muse (93). Tel. (800) 273-0177; Fax (707) 431-1261

Smoky tones, fine furry texture with glossy fruit. Finely polished. Perhaps just a little bit overripe for me. Serious wine, no doubt, just not in my comfort zone. (RH)