Immediately on the nose, there is a beautiful freshness, more of the classic Merlot leafiness, like freshly picked berries. The texture is plush, silky, packed tannins that have melted into each other to create spongy layers of goodness. The flavours are reminiscent of plum compote with a hit of spice and premium baker’s cocoa nibs. The intensity of youth is just beginning to fade to a more harmonious, elegant adulthood. The finish is long, concentrated and lasting, leaving the palate perfumed with red fruit and rose petals.

There are 1,676 cases of the 2008 La Muse, a blend of 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec. This full-bodied offering displays lots of black fruits, espresso roast, chocolate, graphite, and pen ink along with huge intensity, powerful, substantial tannins, and a long finish. It does not yet reveal the velvety character for which La Muse is known, but I suspect it will when tasted after bottling. (Not yet released) The 2007s appear to be the greatest wines Verite has yet produced under the leadership of Jess Jackson and his winemaking guru, Bordelais Pierre Seillan. These extraordinary wines, built for the long term (much like top Bordeaux), are fashioned from some of the finest fruit sources Jess Jackson owns in Sonoma County. I have purchased and loved these cuvees from the beginning, and have followed their aging process (which is glacially slow). Production of these wines is small, but not ridiculously so. There are just over 1,460 cases of La Muse, nearly 2,000 cases of La Joie, and just under 1,900 cases of Le Desir. The 2008s are also strong efforts. Given the fact that Verite’s wines often perform better out of bottle than they do from barrel, this may be another powerful, long-lived vintage. Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel. (866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707

(based on 89% merlot) Good full ruby. Reticent but pure aromas of dark berries, minerals, licorice, spicecake and lead pencil. Supple and spicy but not overly sweet, with excellent intensity and a graceful quality to the vibrant dark berry and violet flavors. Finishes firmly tannic, floral and long, with noteworthy verve. This combines alcohol of 15% with a moderate pH of 3.62.