2017 Realm Cellars, Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard, St. Helena

Winemaker Benoit Touquette hit a home run with the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane, which is possibly the wine of the vintage. Based mostly on Cabernet Sauvignon from a magical, first growth site just outside of St. Helena, it reveals a deep purple hue as well as powerful notes of blackcurrant liqueur, chocolate, unsmoked tobacco, and gravelly earth. With its full-bodied richness, sweet tannins, and opulent texture, you’d never guess it came from the 2017 vintage. It’s a remarkable achievement for an incredibly talented team. I suspect it might close down with 2-4 years of bottle age, so I’d either try a bottle immediately on release or do your best to hold off for 7-8 years.

Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr Crane Vineyard does not disappoint. Deep garnet-purple colored, it flies out of the glass with gregarious scents of black cherries, blueberries and boysenberries plus hints of potpourri, sandalwood, Chinese five spice, cast-iron pan and fragrant earth. Characteristically full-bodied, rich and full-on seductive, the palate is packed with generous, perfumed black fruits, supported by firm, ripe tannins and well-knit freshness, finishing mineral-laced and with epic persistence.

This barrel sample had been decanted for a few hours prior to my visit. It was still reduced upon pouring but was fascinating to get to know. Matchsticks and gunpowder were clearly present, but underneath was a tension and focus of pure red fruits, already playing nicely with a wild, minty oregano note. The 2017s that came in before the tragic fires are something to look for, and will reward the extra work required to track them down.