Dense with incredible tension and viscosity. From an outstanding, warm vintage in the Columbia Valley, this shows off intense Asian spices, wild blackberry cobbler, sage, cassis and scorched earth aromas. The long, lingering palate is dense but balanced, with light tannins and bright minerality supporting flavours of creme de cassis, Turkish coffee, blueberry compote and sage. A stunning wine at 14 years old that will continue to evolve well for at least another decade.

Generous on the nose, the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon opens with stewed fruit and lavish French oak tones. The wine is beginning to peak, as soft wilted plum flavors sway on the palate before moving to plum reduction, cooked fruits, baked cherry skin and reduced blackberry jus, showing the evolution of the bottle. I've had the pleasure of sampling this bottle many times before, but now, the wine is coming to the end of its life and should be consumed in the next couple of years. If this is in your cellar, start thinking about that special occasion to open it. What better way to honor this wonderful wine.

Small berries and a tannic vintage. Small percentage of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 88% Champoux in the Horse Heaven Hills and 12% from Red Mountain vineyards. 22 months in new French oak. Both red and dark fruit on the nose. Such restraint even though you know this has great fruit depth. Smooth, deep-pile velvety tannins. Thick but not heavy. Savoury and very dry but in no way drying. Firm suede-like tannins and these tannins are perfectly enhanced by the acidity. (JH)

From a hot vintage and incredible any way you look at it, the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon has that laser-like focus of a cooler year, yet the voluptuousness and richness of a warmer year. Smoked black fruits, coffee, truffle and pen ink-like aromas and flavors all emerge from this massive, incredibly full-bodied effort and on the palate, it carries itself perfectly with a weightless, yet decadent texture, masses of polished tannin and blockbuster length. More classic and textbook than the 2007, it is every bit as good. Enjoy it over the coming two decades or more. Drink now-2033. This line up was one of the highlights of my trip through Washington and without a doubt, this awesome estate, which is run by Paul and Alex Golitzin, is producing some of the top Cabernet Sauvignon blends in the state, and I would venture, the world. While all of the wines are incredibly age-worthy, the tannins are so well managed and the textures so polished, they dish out immense pleasure even in their youth. The estate’s top cuvee, Paul’s Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon comes primarily from the warmer Champoux Vineyard located in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, yet also incorporates smaller components from Ciel du Cheval, Klipsun, Tapteil and Galitzine. It sees roughly 22 months in 100% new French oak. Tel. (360) 568-2389; www.quilcedacreek.com

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon contains 3% Merlot. The principal component comes from the Champoux Vineyard (in which the winery is a partner) with contributions from the Klipsun and Taptiel Vineyards, outstanding in their own right. It, too, was aged for 22 months in 100% new French oak. Opaque purple-colored, it has a splendid perfume of violets, wood smoke, truffle, Asian spices, black cherry, and black currant preserves. Opulent and mouth-coating, the layers of complex flavors nearly hide enough tannin to support 8-10 years of additional cellaring. The oak, tannin, and acidity are beautifully integrated and the lengthy finish lasts for well over a minute. Purchasers no doubt will want to try a bottle immediately but this towering effort will not reach its peak until 2015 at the earliest and provide pleasure through 2040. I say this with confidence because a 1983 Quilceda Creek Cabernet tasted in May 2008 is at its peak now and should carry on for another 10-15 years. Quilceda Creek Vintners remains a model of consistency. In the outstanding 2005 vintage, Quilceda Creek’s Cabernet Sauvignon remains the benchmark for what can be achieved in Washington and the United States. Some good news from the winery is that beginning with the 2006 vintage, there will be a new vineyard designate, a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Palengat Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The vines are only 7 years old but the potential is enormous as a taste from barrel attests. Tel.(360) 568-2389; www.quilcedacreek.com