A Path to Wine: An Interview with Alice Paillard

Alice Paillard is the CEO and co-owner of Champagne Bruno Paillard, a still young Champagne House, which Jancis Robinson describes as “one of the best, with a connoisseur reputation.”

With a family history of broking and growing in Bouzy and Verzenay since 1704, Alice’s father, Bruno, took the significant step of establishing his own Champagne House in 1981 when he was still in his twenties. Alice joined the business in 2007 and was appointed CEO in 2018. She is one of nine women leaders in Champagne to form ‘La Transmission – Femmes en Champagne’, an association which aims to share knowledge with the next generation of young women in the region to help them find their voice and give them visibility, and ultimately encourage more women to join the world of wine.

Alice, thank you for joining us today. Let’s start at the beginning. Could you share a bit about your upbringing in Champagne and at what age you remember being involved in the world of wine?

It’s tricky, you know, because I’m certain your body remembers things before your mind does. I was first exposed to Champagne during my baptism, with drops of wine on my lips. Growing up in Champagne means you’re surrounded by history, certain types of food, and a certain climate which all shapes your taste. Redcurrants and raspberries are flavours that remind me most of my childhood and they can be tasted in most of my favourite wines, so the preference has stayed with me into adulthood. I associate Champagne with lots of history, lots of good friends and important milestones, and feel the culture fosters a strong belief in human resilience which I see in my business.

As you grew up, your father was establishing Champagne Bruno Paillard. How conscious were you of the significance of what he was doing at that time?

We saw it as hard work, passion and a strong commitment to the wine. My father was loyal to his vision, not aiming for size but staying true to his dream. He wanted to produce wine that respected its origin and terroir, a vision that was innovative at the time but now seems classical because it was founded on authenticity.

Your father founded his own Champagne House at a time (in the early 1980s) when the region had not seen a new house established for almost a century. It was undoubtedly a bold move, and it almost ushered in a new era of producers with a different vision. Could you elaborate on that?

The innovation lay in a commitment to authenticity and respect for the terroir. He wanted to create a wine that was respectful to its origin, the chalky terroir of Northern Champagne. My father believed that you could feel this through the wine by selecting the right terroir and working a particular way in the vineyard that brought out these characteristics. They were simple but demanding principles, such as long aging, that allowed the wines to be extra brut in a civilised and authentic manner. In the beginning of the 80s this was revolutionary but now it’s the usual and classical approach to wine production.

Do you remember when your love of wine began?

Not really. Before I came to love it, it was more a fascination as I was surrounded by wine at an age where I was too young to taste it. At the time I could only assist and observe which made wine a mysterious and sacred entity in my eyes. It was special because people had worked on it and so it deserved to be well-served and when you had time to taste it properly. We were allowed to start trying it at the age of 7, only on Sundays and only a small amount, though we could only drink it once we had described what we saw and how it smelled.

Going back to your personal journey, after university, you studied management. What led you to choose management over oenology or viticulture?

Studying management was a way of not closing any doors in terms of my future and career and stop me making any hasty decisions. Many things are possible when you have family in the business, so I wanted to have autonomy over my decision and give myself some time. The process of me joining the business therefore ended up being a very gradual one. Since the age of 15, I had a desire to explore and see the world and so I ended up studying in various countries before returning to the family business. I studied in Paris and Italy, then pursued wine studies in Burgundy. I then went on to London for a year then another year in New York before returning to France.

So, you officially joined Champagne Bruno Paillard in 2007?

Yes, that’s correct. Initially, I had planned to return later, but my father presented an opportunity to join. He asked if I wanted to wait or if he should hire someone else. It was an invitation to come back, and I decided to take on the challenge. But it was a very progressive process and took time to get to that point. It then took five more years to start bringing my input to the decision table in the business. I spent the first year working in the vineyards, starting in January. I participated in base wine tastings, which is crucial learning not taught in school. It was a natural process of absorbing the knowledge I was surrounded by since the age of 7 which led to me being able to get involved with the decision-making.

Moving forward, in 2012, you took on the role of Deputy General Manager. How did that transition unfold?

It was like doing two jobs in one day – my own work and shadowing my father’s work, it was like an intense training programme! However, my path through the business and into this role was gradual and natural. We are different individuals, but having the same goals is crucial. If there were disagreements, which were rare, we’d take a break, reschedule tastings, and always come to an agreement. It's not much different from any couple dynamics.

What would you say are the positives and challenges of working in a family business?

Working in a family business is great however it does come with its challenges. For the most part it’s the intensity of passion that brings up most of the positives and negatives, as you are working alongside family and doing something that you love but then balancing personal and professional life is difficult. I am lucky to have three beautiful children and my wonderful husband, so they make maintaining a balance much easier. As well as this, my father and I have a great relationship which helps a lot, and we both feel very fortunate to pursue this kind of profession. The challenges don’t outweigh the positives.

You mentioned the challenge of setting limits, especially in the early years. Could you elaborate on that, particularly when being part of a family business that involves winemaking?

In my younger years, it wasn’t easy, especially being one of the first to have children within the family business. There wasn’t a cultural norm or established practice for such situations. Véronique, who has been with us since the beginning, had her daughter many years before. Setting limits in a passionate and family-orientated business requires constant reflection, and it’s a question that evolves over time. Having my own family has been a blessing in helping me navigate and set those necessary boundaries.

Working in a family business involves a delicate balance. Communication is paramount, and fortunately, we all share a good relationship. Open and effective communication is essential to navigate challenges. Having my mother and siblings who aren’t directly involved in the business adds another layer of respect and consideration during family gatherings. We consciously avoid discussing work during those times to maintain an open and rich family life for all members of the family as a way of being inclusive. However, wine is a favourite family subject for all members of my family, so it does often come up! We talk about it from a place of passion, rather than from a work perspective.

Reflecting on the evolution of Champagne Bruno Paillard, especially since you became the CEO in 2018, how involved is your father in the business now, and how has the decision-making dynamic shifted?

My father holds the position of president in the company. I think it was difficult for him to step back from something that he founded and nurtured, but he’s been exceptionally supportive by allowing space for the next generation to carry forward and develop the vision while maintaining the founding principles. The challenge lies in preserving the core values while adapting to the evolving times. The transition has been collaborative, ensuring a smooth integration of new ideas and perspective while upholding the legacy.

If you were to succinctly summarise the ethos of Champagne Bruno Paillard, including its past and future, what core values or principles would you emphasise?

Champagne Bruno Paillard is guided by a few fundamental principles. Love is a key element, not just love for the product but love for the process, the people involved, and the customers. Respect is another core value, instilled from the beginning – respect for the land, the people, and transparency in our actions. Lastly, there’s a deep consciousness of the living nature of what we do, promoting an awareness of our impact and the constant effort to minimise it.

Love is evident in the commitment of everyone involved, from vineyard workers to the sales team. The conscious effort to create a positive impact on the land and the people involved reflects our respect for the process. Additionally, our interactions with customers are marked by a shared passion for wine. We intentionally keep our production limited, engaging with customers who share our enthusiasm and values, fostering a connection beyond just a transaction.

In the context of sustainability and responsibility, how has Champagne Bruno Paillard embraced a conscious approach, and what steps have you taken to minimise your environmental impact?

Sustainability and responsibility are deeply embedded in our approach. From day one, my father avoided the use of weedkillers and advocated for responsible practices in his own vineyards. This came into place immediately after his first vineyard acquisition in 1994. Recently, we’ve made decisions like discontinuing clear glass production and opting to use practices that are more planet friendly. The commitment extends beyond the vineyards, emphasising consciousness in every decision to not only respect but actively contribute to regenerating our environment.

The philosophy of regeneration stems from the same core idea of respect and consciousness. Just as we aim to regenerate the life in the vineyards, I aspire to apply the same mindset to every aspect of the business. This involves being aware of our impact and actively seeking ways to minimise and, where possible, regenerate. It’s an ongoing process that I hope to expand beyond the vineyards, incorporating it into the overall ethos of Champagne Bruno Paillard.

Looking ahead, what are some of the key goals or projects that Champagne Bruno Paillard is currently working on or planning for the future?

It’s hard to predict in our industry considering how fast things change, especially in this current climate. We evolve by exchanging ideas with people as wine but at the end of the day, it’s about connection. I don’t mean to say I’m averse to growth, but it must be done for the right reasons and in a manner that is sustainable, not just ecologically, but economically and with all the people involved in mind.

In saying that, one of the significant projects on the horizon is the construction of a new location for our vineyard team. This building will be designed with sustainability practices in mind. We’re calling it a ‘positive energy’ building which means that the structure will create more energy than it consumes when it is finalised next year. Additionally, we’re consistently exploring ways to enhance our sustainable practices, considering new approaches and technologies. The goal is to align our actions with our core values while adapting to the evolving landscape of the wine industry.

We wanted to ask about La Transmission. Can you tell me about its formation and goals?

La Transmission is a unique initiative that was founded by a group of women who are now in the middle or towards the end of their careers. It was established because these women felt the need for such a platform when they were starting out in the Champagne industry. It's essentially a support system for women coming into the industry.

La Transmission is a tribute to the three women who founded it initially – Evelyne Boizel, former CEO of Champagne Boizel, former president and CEO of Krug, President Maggie Henriquez who now heads Baccarat, and Anne Malassagne, former co-owner of the family-run Champagne house AR Lenoble. They were very much into the notion of transmission. The association speaks about Champagne in a very integrated manner. It's not just nine women; La Transmission represents different territories, types of producers, and generations of women, giving a very rounded experience of Champagne. We organise events and have discussions. We have common values but different perspectives, which makes it interesting. It's a place where we can speak very openly, with no ego and work together.

At La Transmission the collaborative spirit is essential. When one member is busy, another takes charge without any hassle. It’s a system that works effortlessly for us, and it reflects the supportive environment we’ve cultivated.

It’s fascinating to hear about this supportive dynamic. Let’s talk about the event held last December. Could you tell us more about the event and who the intended audience was?

Our events are designed to appeal to students, particularly those in hospitality and general classes. We also reach out to the press and promote the event within our networks. However, due to the intimate nature of our gatherings, we usually have a limited number of attendees, typically around 200-300 people. The events feature workshops and tastings, providing a unique and engaging experience for everyone involved.

Our workshops are small-scale and interactive, with a focus on specific topics like the impact of glass shape on the taste of wine. For instance, during the upcoming event, we plan to conduct several workshops, each accommodating around 20 participants. It’s not just about the theoretical aspects; we want attendees to experience and engage directly with the subject matter. We believe in fostering direct connections. Unlike some misconceptions about the Champagne industry, we want to emphasise that it’s not just about the product but also about the people behind it. That’s why, during our tastings, each of us is present at the tables, engaging with attendees and breaking down any perceived barriers.

It’s clear that La Transmission is focused on creating meaningful connections. When was the initiative founded, and how did you personally become involved?

La Transmission was founded in 2016, and as for my involvement, it’s been about 8 years now. I've witnessed the growth and evolution of the organisation, and it’s been a rewarding journey to be part of this incredible initiative.

During the challenging times of the COVID-19 pandemic, when traditional activities like tastings were restricted, we utilised the time to write a book called “Champagne”. The book, written in French, deviates from the conventional themes of terroir and geography. Instead, it explores Champagne through the lens of the five values of La Transmission: our love of the history of region and estates, the importance of vineyards, a desire to promote the Champagne appellation, pride in our professions, and by the shared goal of transmitting the knowledge of Champagne to others. Each chapter delves into these values, offering a unique perspective on Champagne. I was one of the contributors, but it was definitely a collaborative effort, and we wanted to present Champagne in a different light, not just didactically but through a narrative that encapsulates the essence of these values.

Your family is so tied to Champagne but if you were able to make wine in another region is there one that’s tempting for you?

There are many regions that I’d love to visit, for example there are some wines from the Greek Islands or Etna. However, to make wine, I only want to be in Champagne. I think what’s important to remember is that the wine from Champagne is what it is today because people have always adapted to necessity, and I want to face that and be a part of what we create next.

What wine is currently in your fridge?

I always keep a bottle of Première Cuvée Rosé by Champagne Bruno Paillard, of course, in my fridge. I call it my “24/7 bottle” for any occasion! Although recently, I discovered a wonderful St Emilion from Laurent Clauzel, Château La Grave Figeac, a smaller producer. He has been growing his grapes organically for 15 years and we know that there are some incredible wines in Bordeaux, but it’s the smaller producers who suffer which times are harder. It was a very beautiful discovery and one I’m very happy about. I am also the number one fan of my brother’s wine in St Joseph: Aymeric Paillard, La Vigne des Pères.

Before we wrap up, if you could give advice to your younger self when you joined the family business in 2007, what would it be?

I would tell my younger self to relax, take your time and breath. Many of the challenges, at least in my case, were internal, within my own mind. Realising this allows for a different perspective and approach to challenges. To those starting out in the industry, embrace challenges, breathe, and allow yourself to think differently. The connection between people and their surroundings is profound, and it’s essential to be a part of the ever-evolving narrative of winemaking.

Finally, how do you see the future of Champagne Bruno Paillard unfolding, and what legacy would you like to leave as the current leader of the company?

The future of Champagne Bruno Paillard involves a continued commitment to our core values. I envision a path where we embrace innovation while preserving the essence of who we are. Personally, I aim to leave a legacy of responsible leadership, where love for the craft, respect for the environment, and a conscious approach to every decision shape the ongoing narrative of Champagne Bruno Paillard.

Thank you, Alice, for taking the time to talk to us about your work at Champagne Bruno Paillard. It has been a pleasure.