The 1994 Astralis (Shiraz) was opened after a big tasting of 20 something Clarendon Hills wines. Proprietor Roman insisted on sitting with it until it was ready to taste. "Now you can. This wine is going hysterical," he said. This is the first vintage produced under the Astralis name. It smells bloody and fantastic: cocoa and pork crackling, five spice, star anise, raspberry and blood plum. There are notes of black pudding, earthy mushrooms and layers of silty tannin. It has settled now, 15 minutes or so after being poured. At 28 years old, the wine is vibrant and pure, wrapped in hoisin and clove. A gorgeous, elegant wine. 100% new French oak, 100% whole bunch.

The debut vintage (only 150 cases were produced) of this wine first came to my attention at a blind tasting. The wine still has a dense purple color and a sweet nose of black fruits intermixed with espresso, licorice, truffle, and smoke. Very full-bodied, opulently textured, with sweet tannin and a finish that goes on for a good 40-45 seconds, this wine is evolved, but could still benefit from another 4-5 years of cellaring. It will keep for at least two decades.

A deep garnet-brick color and opening with a pronounced nose of warm black fruits, exotic spices, charcoal and grilled meats with hints of potpourri, the medium-bodied 1994 Astralis is rich and dense with bright acid verve, medium levels of rounded tannins and a long finish. It is mature, for drinking now. I am grateful to Roman Bratasiuk for presenting me with small verticals from his cellar of some of his greatest vineyard sources for this report, including the Merlot (as an indication that Merlot can do well in Australia!), the Old Vines/Romas Vineyard Grenache and a vertical of the Astralis vineyard Shiraz going back to 1991. Readers should note that the 2011 vintage Clarendon Hills wines are being released a little later than usual and therefore were not available for tasting in time for this report. However, I have been informed that they will be available for tasting very soon and will hopefully make the South Australia report. Importer: Wine Brokers Unlimited, Hayward, CA