The firm and compact 1997 Shiraz The Armagh is in excellent shape for its almost 30 years of age, delivering a mix of leathery cedary tones underpinned by well-concentrated, just-ripe blackberry. It's a little rustic, with a slightly firm edge to the tannins. Even if a bit understated, its excellent overall integrity suggests it will hold that impressive shape for some time to come.

Deep ruby. Liqueur-like, vibrant aromas of cassis, blackberry, dark chocolate, tree bark and eucalyptus, with a floral topnote. Explosively sweet and intensely flavored, but still tightly wrapped and partly hiding its density. Though currently unevolved, this superbly penetrating and solidly structured shiraz is utterly seamless. Finishes with firm but silky tannins and superb, subtle persistence. Should grow lush with bottle aging. Also tasted: 1997 McCrae Wood Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec Clare Valley.