I thought that the 2014 had completely stolen my heart, but then there was this 2018 The Armagh Shiraz, bottled under Stelvin. This saw no American oak, as 2017 was the first year of 100% French. This is the first year with puncheons (no hogsheads) as well. It is so good, sensational, with a perfect fruit profile and orange oil character. It is fresh, beguiling, supple, intense, elegant, refined and full—all the good and important things in confluence here. It has 13.6% and matured for 18 months in 75% new and 25% one-year-old French oak hogsheads (300 liters) and puncheons (500liters). This is a superstar. The drinking window may be conservative—closure and winemaking could put this at 40 years with ease. And beyond.

Blended and set to be bottled a month after my visit, the 2018 The Armagh Shiraz looks to be a near-repeat of the impressive 2016. It will be given three years in bottle prior to release, so it's still a few years out. That said, it combines luxurious notes of maple syrup with bright red berries in what sounds like a dessert, yet it maintains a sense of savoriness and drinkability. It's full-bodied, richly concentrated and velvety in texture, with a tremendously long, mouthwatering finish.

Full, screwcapped bottle 1,304 g. The 50th vintage (sort of) since Peter Barry's father Jim planted the seven acres of Shiraz vines that supply fruit for this highly regarded wine. Submerged cap. Aged on lees for 18 months in 300-litre French oak hogsheads and puncheons (75% new). The Barrys are immensely proud that this is the first Australian Shiraz to be sold via the Place de Bordeaux – from 2020. Mid crimson. Fresh, sweet, aromatic, herbal nose and a very gentle impact on the senses – very different from a strapping Barossa Shiraz, for instance. This seems quite a new chapter for The Armagh, or at least in my (possibly faulty) memories of this wine. A wine that almost tasted more European than Australian (sorry, Australians!) although there is the trademark South Australian hint of cough medicine, as well as Syrah's characteristic saltiness. Reminds me a little of the 2016 . I'm glad I opened it on this miserable January evening in London but it has sufficient freshness that I could imagine enjoying it in the middle of summer. Very long and beautifully balanced, with the subtleties of the fruit well outweighing any (low key) tannin. (JR)

Single vineyard planted 1968 by Jim Barry. Ungrafted. The area where the Armagh vineyard is found contains the region’s oldest rock from the Rhynie sandstone formation dating back 800 million years. The Armagh vineyard is characterised by a light brown sandy clay topsoil with a pebbly alluvial layer overlaying a mottled clay subsoil. North-west facing. Less that 1.5 t/acre. Organically farmed but not certified. Elevation of 367.5 m. Destemmed, micro-batch stainless-steel fermenters with header plates for primary fermentation. Malo and 15 months in barrel – new and used French oak. Vibrant cherry red. Open, floral, just a touch of oak spice and fruit spice along with fruit sweetness. Wonderfully fragrant on the palate, too, silky texture. Intense, lithe, finely balanced. Notable but integrated freshness. (JH)