The 2008 Yattarna Chardonnay is comprised of 87% Tasmanian fruit with the remainder coming from South Australia and Victoria. It presents quite an earthy / chalky nose with restrained hints of lemon peel, lime leaf, white peaches and orange blossoms. Medium bodied, tightly wound and with a very good concentration of nervy flavors, it has crisp acidity and a nice suggestion of silkiness to the texture, finishing long and citrusy. Approachable now, it should cellar to 2018+. Importer: Treasury Wine Estates, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-4500

89% Derwent River (Tasmania), 11% Adelaide Hills. Matured for nine months in 49% new French oak. Remarkably pale and tense considering its age. Fragrant, spritzy, crisp, punchy, focused and compact. Has a sort of shellfish note which evokes Chablis. Almost bitter on the finish – still immature. (RH)

Served at the Hong Kong Room to Read wine gala. 89% Tasmania, 11% Adelaide Hills. The structure of this wine was unexpectedly like that of the very much younger Grosset Springvale Riesling 2015. Bracing and crisp and still with something to chew on. Refined and utterly unlike the Australian Chardonnays of yore. (JR)