The Polygons are separate parcels of vines divided by the bedrock upon which they grow. Polygon 3 is a limestone base, and it materially affects the shape and flavor of the wine in the mouth. This 2018 Polygon 3 Grenache is slightly different to the 2019, in that it was matured in a small oak vessel, which makes an impact on the shape through the finish. The fruit flavors tend toward the bloody, the mineral, layered and earthy, punctuated by exotic spice, Earl Grey tea and even dried herbs through the finish. This 2018 was made with 50% whole bunches. There is purity here, freshness and vitality, however the oak is evident through the finish and drags the tannins somewhat.

A new project in Greenock owned by Argentine billionaire Alejandro Bulgheroni, with Alberto Antonini as his consultant. 50 cases produced from 0.274 ha (c 200 vines). Shallow brown earth over deep chalky limestone, which includes fractured schist and limited presence of iron. They green harvest at veraison to reduce yields. Harvested 7 March. 50% whole bunch, fermented with ambient yeast in 1,700-litre Nico Velo concrete tulips, basket pressed, and aged in 400-litre neutral (10-year-old) oak for 15 months. (Later vintages will have some amphora-ageing rather than the oak.) Antonini reckons it is safe to buy old barrels in Australia but he wouldn’t do so in Italy. Antonini likes Grenache more than Shiraz in Australia and Garnacha better than Tempranillo in Rioja. Fruit that is very sweet because very ripe does not tend to age well, he believes. Gentle sweetness of tangy red fruit – but not the sweetness of very ripe Grenache as this is more al dente – plus a flinty elegance and a touch of citrus and wild herbs, on the verge of floral. Juicy and intensely fresh, a coiled, dry energy and really tight, chalky freshness. A light note of dusty minerality. Super-fine tannins which add to the freshness. And very long. Bright but not sweet except in tangy red fruit. Mouth-watering and so finely textured. Tender and vibrant. ‘Reactive tannins’, as Antonini calls them. You could pretty much drink this now though there’s no hurry. (JH)

Gentle sweetness of tangy red fruit – but not the sweetness of very ripe Grenache as this is more al dente – plus a flinty elegance and a touch of citrus and wild herbs, on the verge of floral. Juicy and intensely fresh, a coiled, dry energy and really tight, chalky freshness. A light note of dusty minerality. Super-fine tannins which add to the freshness. And very long. Bright but not sweet except in tangy red fruit. Mouth-watering and so finely textured. Tender and vibrant. ‘Reactive tannins’, as Antonini calls them. You could pretty much drink this now though there’s no hurry. - Julia Harding MW