The 2004 Shiraz Underhill may be the finest example of this cuvee Yarra Yering has yet produced. Its inky/purple color is accompanied by a gorgeous nose of creme de cassis, acacia flowers, white pepper, and steely, earthy characteristics. Medium to full body, awesome concentration and richness, and a delicate, ethereal lightness suggest this stunning Shiraz can be drunk now and over the next 12-15+ years. It is a singular expression of Shiraz from the Yarra Valley. Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

Deep red. Intensely ripe aromas of blackberry, cola, licorice root and vanilla. A thick, almost oily shiraz, with flavors of black cherry and blackberry eau de vie, vanilla cola and cured meat. As viscous as this is, it also boasts impressive verve and finishes fat, velvety and sweet. You need to squeegee this clinging wine off your palate. This outsized shiraz has the density to age but is plenty enjoyable right now.

Dark blackish ruby. Very sweet and ripe on the nose. Gosh – so old-fashioned, in a rather nice way! Pungent and sweet. Round with fully resolved tannins, and a bit of very sweet metal on the end. Reminds me of old Argentine reds. But an acquired taste. (JR)